Monday, February 2, 2009

holy cow (literally).

Dear friends and family,

Nomoshkar from South Asia! I write to you on this Sunday night after a great weekend of exploring the city with friends, attending a new church, and resting up for the week ahead. I thought the two-week mark might be a good time to share with you a little bit about what I have been up to and how the adjustment period has been going since I arrived. And yes, I realize this is super long… please feel free to just check out the pictures.

I spent my first week acclimating to the “hullabaloo” of Kolkata: learning about my new position, meeting the staff, finding my way to the office and around the city, and trying to adjust my sleep schedule. I absolutely adore my roommate, Emily. She arrived in early October and also works in the administrative department. Emily grew up in Vermont and majored in literature—very useful for crossword puzzles—and we have a similar sense of humor. I don’t think I could have asked for a better friend to help show me the ropes. She is also highly skilled in mosquito-killing, which comes in quite handy. We have been having wonderful conversations about anything and everything—Indian cultural oddities, life back in the States, work, boys, family, and more.

A typical day consists of breakfast (cereal, fruit, or toast) and getting ready for work. I typically wear scrubs for pants and a kurta (or tunic, for all intensive purposes) to the office. I wander out of Neelachal, my co-op at about 8:15, (carefully) cross the road, and flag down an autorickshaw (or simply “auto”). Now, I will try to keep this section condensed, but as I find autos and the “auto cultural” quite fascinating, it may be hard. Feel free to skip ahead if you aren’t interested in public transportation systems. Autos are small, three-wheeled vehicles that have engines similar to that of a 4-wheeler (if I had to take a guess). They generally have tarps as covers and can fit three people on the back bench and two, sometimes three, people in the front. I have, however, seen as many as eight people in an auto. In all other parts of South Asia, autos are virtually mini cabs. Here, however, they run similar to a bus system, with one group running from point A to point B, another group running from point B to point C, etc. You can get on and off the auto at any point and thus far, I have found myself riding with several interesting characters. I think I almost gave one elderly man a heart attack when he climbed inside and found himself seated next to a white girl. Anyway, each morning I take one auto to one major dropoff point and then flag down another to get close to the office. A quick walk (instructions include “take a right at the coconut man”) brings me to the office and my day begins. The entire trip takes about 15 to 20 minutes.

We work until six and then Emily and I either do a little grocery shopping or head home. So far, dinner has been very low maintenance: omelets, PB&J sandwiches, stir-fry vegetables, etc. Emily did manage to make a frittata in the toaster oven, which I found extremely impressive. Because people tend to “raise their eyebrows” at women who come home late at night (particularly by themselves), our nocturnal activities are somewhat limited. We have gone over to other expats’ flats several times for dinners and movie nights, but the majority of the nights I’ve been here have been spent cooking, talking, watching “The Office,” reading, knitting, and doing crossword puzzles… thrilling! It actually works out quite well, however, because I have found myself to be rather exhausted at the end of the day. Experiencing sensory overload for the majority of the day can begin to wear you out. The two weekends I have spent here have been used for exploring the city, resting, going to church, and running errands.

I haven’t found myself missing any “things” from the United States, but rather people… all of you guys! Although it can be frustrating to not be able to pick up the phone and call someone whenever I want, the 10.5 hour difference hasn’t really been all that bad. Our apartment complex is very quiet and is a wonderful place to “escape” from the noise that seems almost constantly “on.” Another great think about this city is the sense of security… I have yet to feel like I am in danger. Of course, much of this could be attributed to the fact that I am taller than the entire population of this country and strike fear and awe into the hearts of potentially dodgy characters. It has taken some time to adjust to the amount of staring that goes on; when you combine 1) a six-foot tall woman, 2) who is white, 3) not in the tourist part of town, 4) and by herself, the general reaction is curiosity.

Today marks the end of the holiday Sarswati Puja, which celebrates the Hindu goddess of knowledge. Although it has been relatively quiet this weekend, the neighbors and people in the surrounding area are certainly celebrating tonight: singers and chanters, armed with drums, have taken to the pathways around our complex. More endearingly, a young gecko has taken up residence in the cracks of our sliding door and makes the most charming little squeaks you’ll ever hear. Combine those noises with the “Audubon Birds of North America” wall clock that chimes on the hour in assorted bird calls, and you have an idea of my current “soundtrack.” That’s about it for now… more to come soon. And I promise to keep the next update much shorter!